Archive for the ‘Sexy’ Category

Like to make your own advent calendar you can hang on the wall and fill with your own special treats for the kids? How about making your own Christmas stocking to hang by the fireplace, or make your own gift bags for all those Christmas presents? In this article I’ll show you how you can easily sew these at home, and for a fraction of the price you would pay at the shops.

Advent Calendar

This advent calendar is basically a rectangle of material, with 25 pockets sewn on (all numbered of course) that you can hang on the wall and fill with special treats and sweets for the children.

Suitable Fabrics & Notions

For the backing fabric you need something fairly thick to take the weight of the treats that will be placed in the pockets.

I actually recommend felt for the backing, for the pockets and for the numbers 1 to 25 (denoting the countdown to Christmas). The beauty of felt is you don’t need to hem it as it doesn’t fray. Try getting 3 different colours – say green for the backing, red for the pockets, and white for the numbers.

We’ll also need 2 pieces of thin wood for the top and bottom of the hanger, and some string or rope for hanging.

How Much Fabric to Buy

For the backing fabric, you will need one piece, 50″ tall by 22″ wide. This allows for a 3″ hem to fold over your wood and stitch. If your wood is wider than this, then you will need to get a longer piece of fabric.

Each pocket is 4″ square, and we need 25 of these. So you will need 20″ by 28″.

We will allow 3″ square for each letter. So you will need 15″ by 15″. For a template of the numbers, see the author resource box at the end of this article.

Please note, these measurements do not allow for any  hemming as I am using felt, however if you choose to use a different fabric which requires hems, then you will need to add on a seam allowance for both the height and width.

To Make Up

For the preparation work, all you need are pins or tailors chalk, a ruler, the number templates and your scissors. No pattern required!

First of all, cut out your 25 pockets. You can use a ruler and tailors chalk to mark guidelines for cutting. If you don’t have tailors chalk a white coloured pencil will do the trick! The pockets are all 4″ by 4″.

Now cut out and pin your numbers to the number fabric and cut out.

To attach the numbers to the pockets you can either machine stitch, hand stitch, or use craft glue.

Lay your backing fabric on a table and mark out where the pockets are to be placed using pins or tailors chalk. We will have 4 pockets across, then 6 down, and the number 25 pocket will be on it’s own at the bottom (although feel free to change this layout if you wish).

Each pocket has a 2″ gap around it. So the first pocket will be 5″ down from the top of the fabric (remember we have allowed 3″ for the wood hanger to go through) and 2″ in from the left. The next pocket is 2″ from the previous. To see a diagram of this layout, see the author resource box.

Pin in place, and then machine stitch along the left, bottom and right sides.

Cut your wood pieces so that one is slightly shorter than your width (for the bottom hem, so you can enclose it), and one slightly longer (say 1/2″ each side). Drill small holes at each end of this longer piece so you can thread through your hanging string or rope.

When all of your pockets are attached, use your machine to sew the top and bottom hems, and then insert your wood. You may want to close off the edges of the bottom hem if it is likely that the wood could come out. You can do this by hand.

Now attach the rope through the holes in the top piece of wood and hang. And don’t forget to fill with treats!

Gift Bag

It’s simple to make a Christmas gift bag to delight friends and family, and it’s reusable!

Suitable Fabrics & Notions

For the bag you need something fairly thick so that it can stand on it’s own without any gifts in it. Again, I recommend felt. The beauty of felt is you don’t need to hem it as it doesn’t fray.

If you’d like to decorate the bag with fabric cut-outs in Christmas shapes, you can use any fabric you like (again, felt is suitable for this). For a template of Christmas cut-outs, see the author resource box at the end of this article.

How Much Fabric to Buy

The bag measures 8″ across and 12″ high, and you’ll need two pieces of fabric for the sides, and one piece 3″ wide by 24″ long for the side.  Adding on a half inch seam allowance, we’ll need a piece of fabric 13″ by 24″.

The Pattern

To make your pattern, you just need a piece of paper, a ruler, and a compass (or something circular with a diameter of 8″ and another with a diameter of 4″).

Draw a square on the paper 8″ by 8″. Now place an x every 2″ on the top line of your square. Place your compass on the midpoint (at the 4″ mark) and extend it so that it exactly touches one of the outer edges. Now use your compass to draw a semicircle from one side to the other. Then retract the compass so that it exactly touches one of the 2″ marks, and draw a semicircle from one side to the other. Cut out the middle and you now have a bag handle!

Don’t cut it out yet! We still have to add on seam allowance to the left and right sides and bottom so we can attach the side piece which will join the two larger pieces together.

Draw a line ½” out from each of the left and right sides and along the bottom. This is your cutting template. To see a diagram of this, see the author resource box at the end of this article.

Fold the bag fabric in half, right sides together. Pin on your bag template and cut out.

Now fold out the remaining fabric flat, and cut a long rectangle 24″ by 4″ (this allows for a ½” seam either side).

To Make Up

If you are going to decorate your gift bag with Christmas cut-outs, do it now before we assemble the bag. The cut-outs can either be machine sewn, hand sewn, or attached with craft glue.

To make the bag, take the long rectangular piece of fabric and, with right sides together, pin it to the front of the bag. Sew. Now attach the back of the bag along the other edge (right sides together) and sew.

Turn the right way around, and you’re done!

Christmas Stocking

Home made Christmas Stockings can be personalised for each family member – why not involve the kids in making and decorating them!

Suitable Fabrics & Notions

The sky’s the limit for Christmas stockings. Some beautiful fabrics include velvet and velveteen, faux fur, plush, as well as patterned cottons and ginghams. Search through the remnant bins, or just check out all the red fabrics at your local fabric shop.

You may also want to get some white faux fur as a trimming for the top of your stocking, and some fabric for Christmas cut-outs to decorate the stocking.

What does look nice is a contrast trim with each child’s name on it.

How Much Fabric to Buy

The stocking basically consists of one rectangle 6″ by 14″ and a square 6″ by 6″. You’ll need two of these for each stocking, so, including a ½” seam allowance, you’ll need a piece of fabric 14″ by 15″ per stocking.

You’ll also need some matching braid to hang the stocking, or you can make a hanger using the leftover fabric.

The Pattern

To make your pattern, you just need a piece of paper, a ruler, and something circular to round off the corners. (To see a diagram of this pattern, see the author resource box at the end of this article).

Draw a rectangle on your paper 15″ long by 7″ wide. Now draw a square touching the bottom left hand side of your rectangle which goes out for 6½” and up for 7″, then join it back on to your rectangle.

You should now have a shape that looks like a backwards capital L. Now all you need to do is round off the heel and toe of your stocking using something circular (or do it freehand).

Fold your fabric in half with right sides together, and pin the stocking pattern to the fabric. Now cut out.

If you are making a contrasting trim for your stocking, you’ll also need to cut out a rectangle 13″ long and however wide you want your trim (plus ½” seam allowance).

To Make Up

If you are going to decorate your stocking with Christmas cut-outs or appliqués, do it now before we assemble the stocking. The cut-outs can either be machine sewn, hand sewn, or attached with craft glue.

The same goes for your contrast trim. Any thing you ant to attach should be done before we sew it on to the stocking.

To make the stocking, pin the two stocking pieces (right sides together), and sew from the top of one side all the way around to the top of the other side. If you are not attaching a contrasting trim, turn over your top hem and pin, remembering to insert the braid or fabric for the hanger before you sew the hem.

If you are using a contrasting trim, turn your stocking inside out so that the right side is now facing you.

Stitch the trim together at the ends so you now have a circle of fabric. Place your trim inside the top of the stocking with the right side facing towards the inside of the stocking. Match the top of your trim to the top of the stocking, and pin in place.

Take your braid or fabric for the hanger, and insert it where you want it between the trim and stocking with the open ends flush with the top of the trim and the stocking. Now sew around the entire top of the stocking. Turn the trim right way around, and you’re done!

For girls who want to try out modeling, they think that they require losing all of their fat to become one. There are different areas of modeling and losing fat does not apply to all these categories. When you want to try your hand at posing for the camera, your opportunities are not limited to catwalks. You can still be a famous model even if you are not sashaying for top designers all throughout the world. The first type of modeling job which ranks first is fashion or ramp modeling. When you are within this category, you get the chance to model the latest clothing designs. The second type of modeling job is getting into ads, catalogues, billboards, and commercials. When you are into this, you can be accepted whether you are thin or not. You can be a showroom model if you want to model designer clothing for the clients. Or you can try the other way through glamour or fetish modeling. This category requires you to have an open mind and courage.

If you are interested in the latter type of modeling, there are several websites where you can try your luck. However, you have to be 18 years or older for you to get the chance. One of the sites which concentrate on this type of aesthetic art is I Love French Girls, which is a fetish website run by jG, a french photographer from Paris. Fetish or glamour photography sometimes asks for partial nudity. There are times when your photographer may ask you to show certain parts of your body. If you are prude and is uncomfortable with this kind of job, then this type of modeling is not suitable for you. Female domination portray women in the finest latex clothes, leather garments, nylon stockings or fine lingerie including corsets or high heel shoes. On the other hand, there are some shoots wherein the model is bound or tied, exploring erotic and creative japanese bondage also known as shibari art.

You can check out glamour bondage pictures and female domination movies at I Love French Girls. This is the blog of Jerome Gouvrion, an expert photographer for bondage and fetish productions. I Love French Girls has been created to collect together the last news from jG websites who already published more than 50.000 pictures on the web. The quality is outstanding and his artworks dwell on the culture of fetish, latex, bondage, and female domination. He shoots videos or photos of a tied girl, acting as a slave to a mistress. His works also feature total restraint, rope bondage, erotic shibari, and bdsm role play. The audience of Jerome Gouvrion’s website comprises both the men and the women.

Jerome Gouvrion is used to shoot french women models that are not hesitant to act out erotic or sexy scenes. He specializes on images of females in restraint, through ropes or latex outfits. Because of his unique perception on fetish photography, he is considered as a top supplier of glamour bondage and femdom pictures in Europe. I Love French Girls is very much unlike other fetish sites. This is due to Jerome Gouvrion’s belief that women should not be merely considered as sexual objects. He does not believe that the females should be abused to bring out eroticism or fetishism, jG always keeps in mind the notion of respect and that makes a real difference.

Women have always been expected to be beautiful, stunning and simply flawless. In truth, however, dealing with skin problems and maintaining a fresh and youthful skin and body can be a difficult feat. Although people know that nobody is perfect, they still create an ideal version of how a woman should look. As a result, women are becoming more and more embroiled in physical, mental and emotional stress just to attain the perfection that society, men in particular, expects from them.

The first step in becoming beautiful is actually accepting your flaws. No matter how much money you spend to go under the knife and improve upon your imperfections, you will never be flawless and perfectly beautiful. There will always be women who will look more stunning and sexier than you. What’s more, you cannot please everyone. Audrey Hepburn may be an epitome of grace and beauty for you, but other people will find her small and thin.

Once you have accepted that you have these imperfections and problems, only then can you start dealing with your beauty problems one by one. Here are a few of what many women consider as the worst skin problems.

Pimples

Who has not experienced having these red bumps on the face?  Even men encounter this annoying skin problem. In the case of women, however, pimples usually show up a few days before or after menstruation, during pregnancy, or on special occasions like weddings, romantic dates, proms and family reunions.

It seems that hormonal fluctuations and stress often cause pimple flare-ups in women. If you think that the red bumps on your forehead are due to hormonal changes, then it would be best to just ignore them. Pimples dry out eventually, especially if they are small. However, if your flare up is big and widespread, you can seek the help of a pimple-drying cream, which can be bought over-the-counter in many drugstores, pharmacies and even convenience stores. Some say dabbing a small amount of toothpaste on the problem area could also help pimples to dry out.

If your acne is severe and there are puss and blood oozing out of it, it would be wise to visit a dermatologist. Your problem may no longer be hormonal and a specialist will know how to handle such an extreme situation.

Varicose Veins

Another problem that seems to plague women is varicose veins. One of the reasons behind this is probably because of women’s propensity for uncomfortably high-heeled shoes. The best way to prevent varicose veins is to boost blood circulation in your legs. You can do this by dry brushing your skin every once in a while. Wearing compression stockings can also provide some support if your job requires you to stand up or sit down for prolonged periods of time. Lastly, elevating your feet at night while you are resting can also help prevent pooling of blood in some parts of your legs.

Cellulite

Although some men may develop cellulite, this can actually be considered as a woman’s problem because over 95% of people who have this skin woe are women. What makes cellulite really exasperating is that up to now, no one can definitively say what causes the dimpling of the skin. Women aged 20 and above – regardless of size, shape and weight – are all susceptible to having cellulite.

Experts believe that cellulite is also a blood circulation problem. In order to minimize the appearance of cellulite, it would be best for women to boost their blood circulation through exercise. Dry brushing, massaging and exfoliating affected areas are also ways that can improve the appearance of cottage cheese skin. Another effective solution against cellulite is by regularly putting on anti-cellulite cream, such as Cellutherm, on affected areas. If you are interested in knowing how Cellutherm can help get rid of your cellulite problem, just click on to http://www.cellutherm.com now.

You will need:

white poster board or white contact paper

acrylic paints and a brush or wide permanent markers in assorted colors

glitter and glue, optional

a clear plastic trash bag (30-33 gallon)

2″ wide clear shipping tape

scissors

a large bag of balloons in many colors

2″ wide ribbon (gold or silver is best)

neutral clothes, or optionally for women, stockings and high heels.

…and you will possibly need someone to assist you in getting into your costume.

Using the poster board or the white contact paper as a base, paint a colorful Jelly Bean Label for your bag of beans. If you wish, you can look online or in stores for inspiration for your costume. The label should be about one foot tall by one and a half feet wide. Gold or silver paint or metallic marker, or glitter can be used to add sparkle to your label.

Carefully flatten your clear trash bag out onto a clean, flat surface. Center your Jelly Bean Label approximately 16″ up from the bottom of the bag and affix, using clear shipping tape as necessary. Using scissors, cut two leg holes in the bottom of the bag, and reinforce the edges in an “8″ formation around the openings with the clear shipping tape.

To make shoulders to hold your costume up, it is convenient to have “suspenders” made of clear plastic shipping tape. Stick tape to itself in the middle of two long strips of shipping tape. Affix them on the bag far enough apart that you can get into your costume, but close enough together that the straps can rest on your shoulders and hold the costume up. Cut two holes in the sides of the bag for your arms and reinforce the holes with clear tape. Add the decorative ribbon around the top of the bag, and secure with tape.

Now blow up your balloons. Do not fill the balloons too much or they will pop easily. The number of balloons you need will vary. Get dressed and get into the plastic bag, and fit the balloons in around you.

You will need:

1 tall box large enough to wear

a utility knife

clear shipping tape to assemble the box.

a yardstick and pen or pencil.

red and white paint (and yellow paint also, if desired), and a brush

cream or white colored Styrofoam peanuts

spray adhesive safe for use with Styrofoam, or other glue

neutral clothing, or optionally for women, high heels and stockings.

for an optional hat: one sheet of poster board.

If you don’t have a box the right size, you should be able to find one at a shipping store. Ideally, you want one that is about eight inches wider than your shoulders, and about as tall as the distance from just above your knees to your shoulders. The bottom of the box will now be the top of the box. What used to be the top, will now be the open bottom for your legs. With the utility knife, carefully cut off the extra flaps that will be on the same end as your legs. Wait to tape the box until you finish the painting.

If you wish, you can use a popcorn box from your theater or look at popcorn boxes online as a model for your costume. On one side of your box, write “POPCORN” in large red letters and draw a red a frame around it in any desired shape. On this and the other three sides of the box, use the yard stick to measure and mark vertical stripes four inches wide. Alternately paint them red and white. Some popcorn boxes use yellow on them as well. Paint the top of the box where your head will stick out, white.

For the optional cone hat, cut the poster board into a large enough wedge to form into a cone to wear on your head. Before assembling, mark and paint red and white stripes on the poster board, that are smaller at the top than at the bottom of the cone. When the cone is dry, assemble and affix with tape. Glue Styrofoam peanuts randomly to the sides.

When the box is dry, tape the top of the popcorn box closed and carefully cut a round hole just large enough for your head to get through. Using glue, apply the Styrofoam peanuts to the top of the box in a pile, much like popcorn is heaped in a popcorn box.

Try on the box to approximate a convenient place for arm holes. They should be at about elbow level, on the sides, and perhaps a little nearer to the front than the back. With the utility knife carefully cut the holes. Your costume is now ready.